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I don't like this food for several reasons...firs t, it has a lot of potentially problematic grains......wh eat and barley are high allergen and not my choice.  Rice is the easiest to digest so if grains are to be included, I advocate rice or sweet potato in place of grain.

Second, they clearly don't have a vet nutritionist on board because they, like many dog foods today, are using ingredients that are not biologically appropriate for dogs and therefore cannot provide the intended nutrient.  Example, Flaxseed is not a source of omega 3 for dogs as it provides ALA that must be converted to derive omega 3.  Dogs are not capable of making this conversion and therefore cannot derive omega 3 benefit from flaxseed (many humans can't make this conversion as well actually).  Fish oils are the only reliable, biologically appropriate source of omega 3 for dogs.

Third, their lab assay is incomplete.... they don't even provide a calcium and phosphorus analysis which is the most critical ratio and two nutrients I evaluate in dog food - the most critical for growing dogs.

There are so many better foods out there, I see no reason to use this one.
Just my two cents.

I understand your frustration... .you have outlined why I would never leave one of my dogs with an unknown groomer.  I do my dogs myself.  The fact is for me, I want my dogs to have a positive experience and not fear being bathed, crated or dried.  I can always tell dogs handled by strangers since they usually have issues with these things - especially dryers.  I think it is important to introduce a blow dryer carefully and positively to ensure accepted through life as well as being bathed and standing for it.  I give treats to ensure a positive experience and have a dog dryer, so two hairy dogs are bathed and fully blow dried in two hours.

The issue here with how long it takes is because they are not drying the dog - they are relying on cage drying....stic k the dog in the cage and point blowers on him so they don't have to do any actual grooming.  This always results in a "damp" dog when dealing with these breeds - The one time I took a Berner rescue to the groomer, I got back a damp dog.  I do not think cage drying is good practice either unless the dog has a real issue with dryers - then they will rely on it.  Ideally, a good groomer should be drying your dog.

Just know that it is not typical to be trimming a newfie - so you will get a confused look.  Trimming ears and feet are standard and this is what I do on my breeds as well - but legs and chest are not typically trimmed.  Again, I trim ears and feet myself - why pay someone to do something so simple?

I think you would be better served investing in a dog dryer and washing your dog yourself.  Unless you get a great referral to a highly professional groomer, not paid help, you won't likely get what you're looking for and your dog will sit in a crate, wet most of the day.

You posed a lot of questions here, so I will offer what I can....

As Patrick stated, hearing a percentile would indicate that she did PennHip - the most scientific basis for grading the hips and honestly, more reliable than even the OFA.  Before purchasing him however, you should have requested proof of all health certifications and had her explain them all to you.  So if there was a Pennhip evaluation done, ask to see it.

Keep in mind however, that both parents may have been certified with clear hips, by either the OFA or Pennhip and this still does not guarantee that your pup will be free of it.  Simply looking at the parents is not sufficient, and knowing what the grandparents also looked like, as well as all the offspring those grandparents produced (your pup's parents' littermates) is what is key.  Good pedigree analysis, including a vertical evaluation is your best option for evaluating a pup's health prospects.

See this OFA article to understand more:  http://www.offa.org/hovanart.pdf

You asked what you are entitled to if there is a problem - that all depends on your contract with the breeder.  Good breeders provide contracts to protect the interests of the animal.  Your contract outlines any health guarantee, and commitments by the breeder.  My contract for example states that I will get money back for completing each health certification on my dog for example, and if there is a crippling problem, I get my money back.  If you do not have a contract, then you are likely not entitled to much of anything.  You made a direct, albeit blind purchase, with the breeder and it becomes "buyer beware" if you did not get a contract.

I took a look at your video - and honestly, there is no reason to panic.  His gait is not good (but so are a LOT of dogs) or "correct" but that does not mean he has hip dysplasia necessarily.  Keep in mind that he is not limping, so if his hips are not clear, they are not likely severely affected either.  It looks like he can live a good quality life despite his gait, and may not have any issues for a long time.

Most giant breed dogs, and certainly many many newfies are dysplastic to some degree.  There are also a host of issues that are possibilities affecting gait, so it could also be laxity in the hock (also a common issue in the breed) or just poor structure or angulation from the back causing poor gait. If it is a structure weakness, then it is what it is and your focus will be on management.

The important thing to do for him is ensure proper exercise and proper muscle development.  I have a 6 month old rescue Bernese Mtn Dog here right now and he came out of a petstore cage completely down on his hocks, barely able to walk, with no muscle development whatsoever.  After swimming therapy and proper exercise for the past month, this boy looks remarkably better, fully upright, walking normally and getting stronger.  He has both a bad hip (dysplastic) and a bad elbow (dysplastic) but is looking quite good given his condition.  We will focus on continuing his therapy and building strength, good supplements and a raw diet, and place him in a good home that will continue these things....he'll have a good quality of life.  So just keep that in mind.....

If you are really concerned, and want to learn more, then you should get involved with your local Newf club - those are your best breed experts and will happily educate you on your dog - just ask the show folks for an evaluation - and seek a consult with a good orthopedic vet who can x-ray him and submit to OFA.

More important than AKC papers or vaccination records, are health certifications .  Did she provide proof of hip, elbow, heart, eye, and thyroid clearances?  If not, yep - backyard breeder and there is nothing to justify that high price you paid.

If so, you are lucky (you never met her, saw the conditions of the dogs, or the parents) and paid a justifiable price given the investment she made.

Just ask her what vaccines were given so you know what not to duplicate (and risk health issues or side effects) and provide this info to your vet.  No big deal.

There are no schools involved and I trust my vet completely. This is the first hot spot, I will watch but so far I am not concerned. The spot is healing up nicely. I think it has something to do with the two dogs play fighting and her hair is very thick. My daughters dog is on Hills too at a different vets office.

Well, just in case it helps to have another weigh in here - Newf Owner is right here.  Hills sponsors the one and only text book used in vet school - all accredited vets in the U.S. are taught their one and only nutrition course by Hills, who also provides a "start up" offer upon graduation and starting a new practice.  They are indoctrinated by Hills just like the pharmaceutical s and M.D.s - Hills is as bad a food as there is out there - nothing beats it for lowest quality ingredients and whoever looks at those labels and thinks any of that is GOOD for any living being is crazy - most just don't read labels, but rather just follow the vet.

In reality, a vet knows little about nutrition unless they offer you and me more education, learning etc.  I would never take nutrition advice from my vets.

The Whole Dog Journal does an excellent review of dog food each year in Feb - and they analyze all ingredients, their source and processing plants and outline why those who don't make the cut, don't.  Hills has never made the cut and if you want to know more about why, I am happy to post more to explain their position.

Good foods, the top foods, are found in specialty supply stores - not a vets office or grocery store.  www.naturapet. com offers a good label analysis program also.

Hot spots are a sign of poor health in my view - in my 40 years of living with dogs, I have never had one.  Mine are wet all the time, and wrestle and play all the time.  Dogs should be able to do this without getting hot spots.

The skin is called the third kidney, because it is an expelling organ - most things affecting the skin are coming from the inside out - not external.  Rashes, hives, acne etc. - all signs of the inside issue coming out and hot spots are more often than not the same sign.  Food is a big culprit, with the immune system and bacteria.

When he barks excessively we have been going out and throwing water at him. It has quieted him quite a bit.

Please don't ever do this - or other punitive things that dogs can't reason.  As was said, you are only teaching him that you coming out to him means bad things for him and could be escalating his people problem.

I think a trainer to the home is a great idea and am very relieved that you have found a positive trainer who will use a clicker.  I trust she will teach you how to avoid using all negatives with him that fail to show him what you want him to do.......

Putting him outside all day is not optimal - dogs are pack animals and isolation is the worst thing for them.  Working dogs who work outside all day are focused on a job at hand (mental stimulation) and stay with their flock, owner, etc.  Simply being banished in a backyard is punishment.

Patrick gives good advice in my view - I have never met this breed that wasn't aggressive with strangers on the property - this is the breed.  So if there are people coming around, putting him in a quiet room (that signifies calm, peace, and positive) is a good idea.....not some place that will be construed as punishment.  Also, when put in this place, he should be given a stuffed kong or something to occupy him, keep him focused and stimulated and positive.

Think Positive!  All things positive.

Immediate vet attention and anti-venom with specific fluids is critical if the bite is truly poisonous...th e biggest risk is kidney failure.....

The beautfiul bloodhound that won the AKC Eukanuba a few years ago just died from a snake bit - but he didn't die for 9 more months post bite until his kidneys failed.
Definitely something that must be prevented, and your guy likely still needs vet care.