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I have been working putting a pedigree together on a breeding that I'm considering for Penny. I sent it to her breeder today, and got very positive feedback on it.

Penny's breeder and I are making plans to see this young dog and go over him, but barring anything really wierd or unforeseen, Penny will be visiting CH Apollonia Anything Goes ("Axel") late this year.

This will be a loose line breeding on CH Full Moon's As Good As It Gets ("Phil". "Phil" is strong for topline and type, especially head type. He goes back directly to 2 dogs (sire and grandsire) who were strong for great topline and beautiful type, CH Vom Sonnenhouse Kruggerand, and Belg. CH Grave Kapenborgh.

Axel offers lovely color, nice angles front and rear, beautiful type, very nice movement, correct eye shape, and a nearly flawless health testing background. He is particularly strong for elbows, having all normal parents AND grandparents, along with 2 normal great grand parents. This is important because as some of you may or may not know, Penny has one elbow DJD Grade 1, and her side of the pedigree is NOT strong for elbows.

Axel's dam is very strong for topline.

Here is the pedigree:

http://redyrerottweilers.bravehost.com/pennyaxel.html

And a couple photos of Axel....

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a22/RedyreRotties/AxelHeadhshotFront.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a22/RedyreRotties/AxelAOMCRC.jpg

I have personally seen and had my hands on most of the dogs behind Axel.

He should help Penny with eye shape, topline, shoulder lay, angles, and mouthpigment.

Line breeding on Phil, even that distantly, I could see a few puppies with a rounder eye. That is where Penny's is coming from, however, since Axel has such a distinct almond eye, there should be some puppies who do have correct eye shape. It's also possible I would see a puppy with a soft topline, not the desired head type, or markings that are lighter than you want. Puppies displaying these faults might be placed as companions or working prospects, depending on the severity of the fault.

However, Phil was strong for topline and type, especially head type, so he brings some very good things to the table. Phil's sire and grand sire were also dogs of gorgeous type with very good toplines, and very good producers.

Axel's dam has a beautiful correct topline as well, so I would expect good things with improvement there.

All in all, the pedigree looks very promising. If all goes well in the next several months, Penny will finish her AKC CH title, and earn her Rally Novice obedience title. We are also working on herding, and plan to go on to finish her AKC obedience titles through Utility.

She will be 2 July 28th, and shortly thereafter I will have her final OFA hip and elbow films done. She will also have another CERF test, and an Doppler echocardiogram done on her heart.

Should all go as planned, I look for January 07 puppies.

From http://www.chako.org/dogblog/blogs/chako_official_dog_blg/archive/2006/02/01/169.aspx


Fight Back on Election Day by Remembering These Names for California

Jackie Speier is running for Lieutenant Governor, vacating her current State Senate Seat for Senate District 8. Speier sponsored SB 861, the law that allows California communities to engage in breed profiling. Obviously, responsible dog owners should vote NO to Jackie Speier, wherever and whenever her name appears on a ballot. Tom McClintock is also vying for Lieutenant Governor. He voted NO to the bill and even took the extra step to ask the Governor to Veto SB 861. I don't know about you, but I'm voting YES to McClintock come election day, and I've made absolutely sure my voter registration is updated!

Speier vacating her senate seat leaves an opening. Already, the political vultures are swarming around the opportunity to become State Senator. Amongst those vultures is Leland Yee, a current State Assemblyman. He voted YES to SB 861 and therefore YES to breed discrimination . He may have thought we wouldn't remember his yes vote, since it was just one among many, but we have. I certainly have, and I hope you do, too, come election day. Give Yee a good kick in the rump by NOT voting for him.

The other political hopefuls for Senate District 8 are Mike Nevin and Lou Papan. Neither one had any voting responsibiliti es for SB 861, but all three are democrats, and of course, SB 861 was a democrat sponsored bill. That doesn't necessarily mean either would support breed discrimination, but we know one thing for sure -- Leland Yee and Jackie Speier wholeheartedly support breed discrimination .

Both Yee and Speier need to be OUT of office if responsible California dog owners hope to be able to keep the dogs of their choice and persons with disabilities don't want to have to keep fighting for their right to keep their service dogs, regardless of breed. (After all, even when told several times that she should exempt service dogs, Jackie Speier refused to write such an exemption into her breed discrimination bill).

Politics is dirty, and here's even more dirt. Want to remember who voted YES and NO to SB 861:

Assembly members voting: http://www.pitbull.us/sb861vote.pdf

State Senators voting: http://www.pitbull.us/politicians.htm

And if you want to keep tabs on who is spending the most money on their campaigns, check out this article. Money might buy advertising and other campaign goodies, but it won't make people forget. We have the following message for Yee: No matter how much money you spend on your campaign, Mr. Yee, ye won't have the vote of responsible dog owners in California.

There will come a time when your pup is RUNNING to you indoors each time he hears his name.

If you have also been working on shaping doggy attention, you should have yourself a little shadow by now, who is hanging on your every word. Congratulation s. You have put yourself in the trusted and beloved leader position in the eyes of your dog.

Now it's time to move outdoors where there is more distraction and play the recall game.

2 things are important to remember when training your dog.

1) when location changes, or distractions are introduced, many times you are briefly back at square one with the dog, as if he has never been taught a behavior. This is normal. Plan to reinforce your behaviors for a short while just as you did when the pup was first learning. Dogs progress fairly rapidly beyond this stage, but patience, kindness, firmness, consistency, and rewards are in order, just like when you are just beginning to train an exercise.

2) ALL dogs will go through what is called a "learning plateau" after they learn each behavior. Sometimes you will miss this plateau, but most of the time you will notice it. It happens usually between 5 and 7 weeks after a behavior has been learned. For example, you have carefully taught your puppy to sit on your verbal command. He's been sitting briskly and reliably, with a happy face and a wagging tail. One day you begin a little training, and you ask for the sit, which you are sure your dog knows, since he's been doing it reliably for 5 weeks. He looks at you like you are from mars. He has no clue. Many people get very upset, and punish puppies and dogs for not "listening". It's important to note when you are working behaviors, and when the pup has learned them. I keep a notebook. Then, if the puppy "forgets" his cues, you can go back and find out when you were training that behavior. If it's between 5 and 7 weeks ago, or thereabouts, you are likely seeing a plateau. This has been studied in detail, but researchers are unable to understand exactly why this happens. Some feel the pup is putting the behavior in his memory bank, or that the pup is noticing hand signals and/or body language that go with the command, but bottom line is, it happens OFTEN, it's documented, so be prepared for it.

So, in preparation for your outdoor recall adventures, you will need equipment.

You need a 30 to 40 foot piece of cord, and a bolt snap. These things are available at your local home supply store for a small amount. Use a light cord, but one that is strong enough to hold your dog's jerk on the end of it if necessary.

Arm yourself with a pocket full of treats, and you are ready to go.

out you go with the pup. You don't have to carry the line, and in fact, it's better if you just let him drag it. Just keep him in close enough so that you can grab the end of it if you need to.

Let the dog sniff about and get distracted.

When he is really interested in something, call his name. Help him with the line if necessary, and once he's looking at you show him the treat. As he starts towards you, say "Ralph, COME!!" with a big smile. If you really want to encourage him, kneel down, and spread your arms out wide, and be SURE to smile really big when you call him.

WHen he gets there, praise him up good, and give him several treats. He won't want to leave you again immediately, (since you are always such a good source of MARVELOUS things now...) but he will if you are patient.

With some dogs you may need a helper to distract the dog. Each time he gets distracted, call, reel him in if necessary, and PRAISE PRAISE and reward.

As time goes by, and he is more reliable, increase the intensity of the distractions.

The harder you work it, the better and more reliable your recall will be.

Get someone to hold the dog on the line. You go hide and call him. You can think of all sorts of variations. Not only is it fun, but your dog is learning a skill that will exponentially improve his life.

Imagine, never another worry about a dog running out a door, or slipping a collar, ever. Imagine KNOWING with NO doubts that your dog will come EVERY time you call him. On the beach. At the dog park. Every single time.

It works, people, but only if you work it.

The Recall Game


Having a dog who will reliably come when called is one of the best
things in life. This means FREEDOM for your dog. Here is how to teach
your dog to RUN to you each time you call it.


1)       NEVER call your dog unless you are CERTAIN you can enforce
the command. Each time you call your dog and he does not immediately
come to you to receive a food reward, you take a step backwards in
his learning to come when you call. It is important not to make
mistakes when teaching the recall. DO NOT CALL YOUR DOG if there is
ANY chance you cannot enforce the command. EVER.
2)       NEVER call your dog to you for anything unpleasant. If you
need to interrupt a play session, or you are going to trim nails, or
if you are about to do anything to your dog that he does not enjoy,
GO GET THE DOG. Do not call him to you.
3)       FOOD REWARD every single recall. EVERY SINGLE ONE. This
means keeping treats in your pockets at all times.
4)       Smiles are required equipment when calling your dog. NEVER
EVER call your dog in anything but a praise tone of voice. Correction
will NEVER help a recall. Your dog must WANT to come when you call.


To play the game you need at least 2 people, and several is great.
Each person is given a handful of very small soft treats. I prefer
tiny pieces of hotdogs or string cheese. Pieces should be VERY small,
even for a larger dog or puppy. I slice a hotdog in half and cut the
pieces the size of a nickle. Once people have their treats, they
should take a seat around the room with as much room between them as
the room will allow.


One person takes the puppy or dog and points him towards the person
who is going to begin the game. This person may do anything to get
the puppy to come towards him except say the word COME. Clap hands,
smile, laugh, show the treat, call PUPPPY PUPPPPY PUPPPPY, or the
dog's name. When it is CLEAR that the pup is committed to going to
the person, and ONLY THEN, say the pup's name, and come. For example,
Bailey, COME! It does not matter if the puppy is almost to you, as
long as the pup hears his name and the word COME while he is going
TOWARDS the person calling.


Hold the hand with the food right up next to your body so that the
puppy has to come all the way up to you and touch you to get the
treat. Do not feed the treat until you are holding the puppy's
collar. This prevents the "snatch and run" game. Praise and pet the
puppy cheerfully while he is getting his treat. Once the pup has had
his little tiny treat, it's time to point him towards another person
who does the same thing.


It is extremely important that the participants understand they are
NOT to say the word COME unless the puppy is already doing just that.


Play as long as the pup is interested. Main rules, Do not say COME
unless the puppy IS coming, hold the treat up CLOSE to your body, and
you must be holding the collar to feed the treat.


This simple game does more to build a reliable recall than any other
training you can do. Your pup will quickly learn that his name and
the word come means TREAT. Each time you call the pup and reward him
for coming quickly to you, you build a more ingrained and reliable
response. If you are consistent and train this game at least 2 to 3
times per week, you will have a dog who will ALWAYS come when you
call it. Most owners list this as a top priority for their dogs. Here
is a fun and simple way to attain this goal.


Practice often! Your pup will love this game, and so will your friends.

Today, September 17th, 2005, my 13 month old Rottweiler bitch, U-CH Eternal Moon Finders Keepers CGC was Best in Show at the American Hairless Terrier Club's All Breed UKC Show.

She also earned her Canine Good Citizen certificate today.

I dont' have the info on judge and how many entries in the show, but I will find that out tomorrow.

Right now, of course, I'm on cloud 9.

Oh yes, I almost forgot....We were Group second last night, and earlier today.