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Messages - sc.trojans

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316
Golden Retriever Discussions / Re: strong willed at five months
« on: August 15, 2005, 10:33:35 am »

Sounds like you have what the British and Canadiens would refer to as a "cheeky dog" - she has attitude.  Typical cheeky behaviors are demand barking (she barks at you as if yelling at you and in fact IS - she is demanding some action from you - food, play, attention etc.), assertive body gestures for your attention, perhaps even butting another dog out of the way etc.

A cheeky dog isn't anything to worry about, but be sure to follow good training principles so to get it under control.  I had a cheeky dog and demand barking is not a good thing.  Whatever you do - don't enable it by petting her, giving her attention or doing the thing she is demanding when she does it.  My cheeky dog would stand in the kitchen and yell at me for food as I was preparing her dinner.  I would put everything down and walk out of the room when she started....it took a week for her to learn the demand barking wasn't going to work.  You can work on all behaviors like this and as has been recommended - Patricia McConnell has some great books out and I highly recommend.

Good luck

317
Golden Retriever Discussions / Re: humping
« on: August 15, 2005, 10:26:54 am »

Greek 4 said it best - humping is not sexual or some perverted game - it is all about dominance and establishing hierarchy in a pack.  I never realized there were so many who were viewing this as human behavior - not thinking like a dog :)

It has nothing to do with whether a dog is fixed or not - fixed dogs, both male and female, mount others for dominance all the time.  When bringing a new dog home, it will be especially common as they sort out where each other ranks in the home.  I would never interfere with this in the home - it is critical that they sort out who is leader in the pack and the worst situation that can arise is ambiguity about it - that causes friction and in some cases even fights. When stopping it, you are saying "no, its not you" - when maybe it should be and would be.  They need to sort it out.

Outside the home is another story - I used to be of the mindset that my dog had to learn to defend himself and learn how to "get out of it".  Now I simply don't let another dog mount mine, as it is a "bully" tactic - the big dogs will always get challenged and mounted by others because they are so big - it is the mindset of "well, he's huge, so if I can dominate him, then I am the king".  Don't allow that stuff.

My golden is fierce about getting dominated - when dogs walk up to her to mount her, she'll scream at them hard if they dare.  My other dog, a Berner however, plays everyday with her best friend, a girl, who loves to hump her occasionally during the play to announce "I won - I'm dominant"

In the ends, its a fundamental pack behavior.


318
Bernese Mountain Dog Discussions / Re: HELP! My big dog is a big baby.
« on: August 15, 2005, 10:11:07 am »

Oh boy, No....not at all.  They are a true cold mountain dog and are highly susceptible to heat stroke.  If you put a Berner in the desert or in high heat - he would never come outside - search for the coldest floor spot and not live a happy active life.  I know people in Arizona with them and I just cant imagine - when I ask how they do I just get the reply "oh, they just dont go outside and must be in air conditioning" - that's no way to live.

Our summers, although always very temperate, have become much warmer with all the global weather change and if my temperatures get over 75 degrees, my Berner is in the house.  Fortunately, we have had very few of those days so far this summer.

I hope you find a dog that will fill your void - I would highly recommend a sun dog however.

Good luck!

319
Medical Conditions & Diseases / Re: Dysplasia
« on: August 13, 2005, 09:27:54 pm »

I just wanted to throw in my two cents on this thread - whether your Bear, or any other big dog actually proves to be dysplastic or not, a good thing to have them on is Glucosamine - already mentioned by one poster (Cosequin).  Every big dog can use the assistance of all natural glucosamine since they typically lack sufficient amounts of it already in their joints.  As they age, it will only decline (just like us).  The orthopedic surgeons I know argue that every big dog should be on glucosamine starting at 4-5 months and remain on it for life.  My Berner has been on it and she is a year old now - she is the most athletic Berner I have ever seen and I hope it keeps her in top shape.  My Golden, who is dysplastic in both elbows AND has two luxating patellas, has been on it since she was 9 months old.  I know of her joint problems because I had her certified by the OFA at two years of age - this is my only indicator however as she has never limped a day in her life.  Now the OFA can be wrong, and only time will tell - but with both elbows and knees certified as less than stellar, it is unlikely.  In time, she will surely be arthritic but so far, at age 4, she is a highly active jumper and shows no signs.

So the other point here is that a dog can be dysplastic but also be asymptomatic, as in my Golden's case.  If a dog is actually limping, it is a sign that it is severe - or else severe pano (growing pains) and pretty far along.

I would never give my dog Rimadyl...not for anything until they are on their death bed - that is a nasty drug and I have seen too many dogs die from it - be sure to always research the drugs you're given before giving them - as vets today do not provide you with side effects and cautionary sheets like we receive from pharmacists.

If anyone has a dog that is dysplastic or arthritic, I also highly recommend hyaluronic acid - I use Synthovial 7 since it is in liquid form and more readily assimilated - but it has worked wonders on my own stiff knees and I believe my Golden's mobility.  It is naturally occuring in our bodies as well and diminishes as we age - it is attributed to arthritis setting in (as well as wrinkles and loss of vision).  There are natural pain killers out there far safer, and more effective than an ugly drug like Rimadyl - always try them first before resorting to something like that.

Hope Bear proves out to only have growing pains.....defi nitely get him certified by the OFA however.

Good luck!

320
Bernese Mountain Dog Discussions / Re: HELP! My big dog is a big baby.
« on: August 12, 2005, 04:04:37 pm »

Although late, I concur on the Rescue Remedy - it is always the best first option to try in case it works.  I also know that a lot of fear and paranoia is a common side effect from vaccines - specifically rabies and distemper which both affect the neurological system.  If you have a dog in really bad psychological condition during these episodes, I certainly wouldn't vaccinate her again and risk making it worse.  I would strongly recommend you consider consulting with a homeopath - knowledgeable homeopaths are very well schooled in the side effects of vaccines and the best remedies to try to counteract if this is underlying the problem at all.

Good luck

321
Food Discussion & Information / Re: Raised water and food or not?
« on: July 25, 2005, 10:04:11 am »

There has been much written about bloat, but the most credible study remains the Purdue study. If you have not seen it, definitely get a hold of it online.  The purdue study found that raised bowls do not help with bloat, but "could"  enable the large chested dog to drink/eat faster and intake more air given its position to the bowl.  Several have suggested that making the dog bend over for its food slows down air intake.  This does not mean, nor do I believe should be taken as, raised bowls "cause" bloat.  Just a warning to watch for.

It should be understood that it does not help prevent bloat however.  A far bigger culprit to the cause of bloat is genetic pre-diposition (is it in the dog's lines within 3 generations), eating dry food without moisture, and eating small sized bits (as in small kibble), one bulk meal per day (instead of two), activity following after a meal (1-2 hours) and stress.

322


Oh God, I am so very sorry you got talked into putting your dog on Metronizadole even with a negative stool - this was not only unnecessary but that drug is not without side effects and its own harm.  I have to admit up front that drugs are a last resort in my home for my pets - only after I have exhausted all natural remedies without risk.  We turn way to quickly to a harsh drug for a "quick fix" to things.  Please remember that most drugs, except a specific antibiotic targeting a bacteria, suppress symptoms only, rather than cure the heart of the issue.  Going after diarrhea will not help you, since you want to find the issue, not treat the symptom.

I think it is worth mentioning here that diarrhea is a symptom, not a problem per se and can arise for a host of reasons.  It can be a parasite (coccidia or giardia most common), it can be a bacterial infection of some kind, it can be a food intolerance, it can be too much or too little of something causing loose stool, stress, IBS or IBD, colitis, or gastritis or, very common in giant breeds, a gastro-intestinal imbalance whereby there is not enough acidity and enzymes to process everything properly. Tracking when the diarrhea occurs, its substance, whether it is after meals, on an empty stomach, at certain times of day, when traveling, when home sleeping etc. is important to reigning it in.

Let us know how he is doing and whether the diarrhea is resolved.  Given that you said there were some "urgent" cases, it is less likely that it was too much or too little of something.  Urgency indicates the colon is trying to expel quickly.  I would certainly add a digestive enzyme to his food to help him break down everything - this is good practice even without a problem since why make the body work harder than it has too.  If you are feeding cooked or processed food, then a digestive enzyme is absolutely in order.  You may want to also add a probiotic, to help cleanse his system, such as Garden of Life.  If it is a parasite, there are many natueral remedies that address coccicidia and the like very effectively.  I rid a case of it in my home with olive leaf, parsley, black walnut tincture, and probiotic.

Good luck!

323
Food Discussion & Information / Re: Any raw feeders on BPO??
« on: July 25, 2005, 09:41:02 am »

I could never prepare someone sufficiently to start feeding raw with a quick message or two on this site - so if you're interested in learning more I highly recommend some outstanding reading by some excellent experts.  To start, everyone should have Kymythy Schultz' "Natural Nutrition for Dogs and Cats" - this is a great and short book to get you started.  Also, you should have Dr. Martin Goldstein's "Nature of Animal Healing". If you buy nothing else, these books would get you going.

Also, there are many great websites to help in specific areas:  Naturalrearing .com, belovedbulldog s.com, healinghope.ne t, and many more.

As already mentioned here, there are also great Yahoo discussion groups that can be invaluable to getting questions answered as they arise.  Many very experienced raw feeders and vets are on these to help.  Most purebreeds have a raw group on Yahoo but I have to caution you to find one that is knowledgeable - for instance, I have two breeds in my home and belong to both raw groups - one is the most experienced and knowledgeable group you will ever find, and the other couldn't be less informed and therefore is ill equipped to help newbies.  There is a rawfeeding group on Yahoo that is not breed specific.

The effort involved is as much as you want to make it - it can be very very easy once you learn how to shop.  Many I know feed pre-packaged raw - purchased raw dog food just like your kibble.  Great brands are bravorawdiet.c om and halshans.com  Putting this is your dog's bowl with a few extras/supplements isn't exactly involved.  I feed bravo sometimes, but generally prepare my own from scratch.  This entails raw meaty bones which I just hand out - or raw muscle meat and organ meat, with ground veggies and berries.  It takes me 10 minutes to prepare their meals from scratch including grinding the veggies.  If this is too much, see above for easier route.

I hope people will read up on this to learn more about what optimal nutrition and health is in our pets.  Just as we constantly hear/read doctors telling us to "eat plenty of raw fruits and vegetables" for our own health, it is also true for every living mammal.  Only raw food has live enzymes, amino acids, vitamins and minerals in tact.  So many are feeding this way that dog food manufacturers and the vets who are loyal to them are pretty upset about it - time will test this out however.




324
Food Discussion & Information / Re: Any raw feeders on BPO??
« on: July 21, 2005, 10:46:09 am »

I feed raw to my dogs and have been for over 4 years now. One of my breeds is the Bernese Mtn. Dog and every Berner owner I know feeds raw given the significant health issues in this breed. My favorite aspect of this diet is being in the park every night, and my dogs, the biggest dogs, poop these little cocker spaniel size poops while all of the processed kibble dogs are pooping gigantic poops of waste - it is one of my best testaments to digestability and optimal benefit of live enzymes, amino acids, vitamins and minerals.

It may be useful for some to think about digestability - it is in this order from most digestible to least digestible:  !) raw fresh food  2) lightly cooked fresh food 3) cooked or frozen food 4) processed food - although extruded and baked makes a slight difference.

There are no clinical studies that show dogs live LONGER - there is abundant evidence however that their quality of life is better.  I have seen firsthand dogs completely turned around once given fresh raw food from a lifetime of processed food.

Much has already been said so I wont repeat it - except that dogs are not people and have significantly shorter digestive tracts - they are not nearly as susceptible to bacteria growths as humans. Mine eat dirt, lick their butts, and drink dirty water with no issue for a reason.  I could never do that and not get sick.  With that said, it doesn't mean a dog cant get a bacterial overgrowth or the like.  Bad meat, something else they ate, or actually most bacteria overgrowth cases I have seen have been kibble fed dogs.  Kibble has a lot of bacteria in it too, and depending on how long that bag has been sitting on the shelf before you bought it or how well you seal the bag every day, has a lot to do with freshness there too.

Last thing - your doctor, if you go to one, is telling you to eat more fresh raw fruits and vegetables for optimal health - that is for enzymes, amino acids etc - because only fresh raw food is in tact and live and can provide optimal nutrition. Same goes for dogs and cats (and every living species actually) - just that they are carnoviores and require animal protein.

325
Bernese Mountain Dog Discussions / Re: berners
« on: June 29, 2005, 10:24:22 pm »

While I couldn't agree more that extra special care must be taken with this breed, including a raw diet and no exposure to chemicals and toxins, such as vaccines, flea/tick/heartworm chemicals etc - this is only evidence for how unhealthy a breed this is that this is all so required - the breed is fragile.  I feed raw as well and do not vaccinate, use chemicals of any kind on my property etc. and everyone I know with Berners does the same.  We continously struggle with how unhealthy this breed is and compared to others - there is no dispute (except perhaps for the Great Dane).  This breed genetically carries Histio, the Berner cancer, and is plagued by auto-immune diseases (hence the need for fresh food and chemical free environment).  All of the breeders I know work tirelessly to breed the healthiest dogs they can, and to outcross as much as possible - but until they find the gene map for histio, all Berners will continue to carry it (yes, it is believed that they ALL carry it - the question is whether it gets triggered in your Berner).  So much so that the local vet hospitals in my area will not allow Berners to donate blood (histio is carried in the blood).

My current Berner is a happy, active girl who is so far problem free, but I do not kid myself into thinking she is a healthy dog, because I still see immune sensistivity - she is very healthy for a Berner.  I never describe a Berner in terms of "a healthy dog" but rather "a healthy Berner".

I pray that your big boy remains healthy and active and surpasses the typical life expectancy. But don't kid yourself into thinking you have a healthy breed even if he becomes an exception in an all too sad norm for this breed.


326
Bernese Mountain Dog Discussions / Re: one blue eye
« on: June 29, 2005, 10:12:07 pm »

I know there isn't being actively discussed now, but I just had to comment as someone who raises Berners.  I find it absolutely unbelievable that your breeder, assuming she is a reputable one, isn't discussing blue eye in Berners with you.  It is very common and considered a fault for show purposes so it disqualifies them in the ring.  I do not believe any breeder who says she has never had one, unless she has had less than 3 litters.  I don't personally know a breeder who has never had a blue eye.

So onto the blue eye - there is absolutely nothing wrong with the functionality of the eye. It is simply a recessive trait - just like in us humans.  It takes the gene in each parent to create it.  Some Berners have one blue eye, and some even have two.  The blue is typically a light, bright blue, just like the Aussie eye.  If the pup is going to have a blue eye, you know it by 6 weeks of age.  If a blue eye is there, it is not going to change.

If you are not going to show or breed the dog, and it will be a companion animal instead, there is absolutely nothing wrong with a blue eye in the Berner - it is unique after all.

I strongly encourage Berner owners to join the Berner-L or NaturalBerners discussion groups on Yahoo Groups.  There is a lot about the breed that requires experience and knowledge, so these lists are very helpful.

Good luck

327
Bernese Mountain Dog Discussions / Re: berners
« on: April 12, 2005, 05:14:59 pm »

I am just checking out this site and love seeing a site dedicated to the big ones :)  Berners are my first breed and love, and my current one is now 9 months old.  I love this breed and am very dedicated to it, working with the National Club and Rescue all I can.  With that said, I am not the enthusiastic endorser that many are, since I feel an obligation to educate and warn:  to say this isn't the "healthiest" would be an understatement .  It is the unhealthiest breed, second only to the Great Dane right now and it is important that when you get one you don't kid yourself into thinking you have a healthy dog - you don't. You can have a healthy Berner, but relative to other dogs, not a truly healthy dog - we are a long way off from that and have made little ground on MH (histio).  Even the best breeders can't ensure a lifespan past 3 years old, and on average still - 6 years old.

Don't get me wrong - they are worth it and a great dog - but they do require what we refer to as "a different kind" of owner - one that understands you're going to have high vet bills and this dog will cost more than most and all of the tremendous sensitivities that go with the health issues in this breed - namely, vaccines, chemicals, drugs, and toxins.  There is also significant emotional sensitivity and requires a very gentle hand - they are considered a "soft touch" dog and scar easily from heavy handed treatment - this is in direct contrast to labs for example, who are not touch sensitive dogs whatsoever.

If you decide to get one - I hope you have qualified an exceptional breeder who will support you for the life of the dog - if so, you will surely be hooked.

Good luck,
Rachel

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